“The family of descendants of Gaetano Bertani one of Valpolicella’s historic winemakers, led by Giovanni and Guglielmo Bertani, remains true to their commitment to preserve tradition while embracing modern practices. In response to climate change, they have new projects at higher altitudes, with a positive impact on the evolution of grape ripening. This presents unique obstacles to maintaining the distinct character and terroir of their wines. Rising temperatures have led to increased sugar levels in the grapes, resulting in higher alcohol content. The phytosanitary and organleptic effects on wines due to temperature changes are not yet fully known and should be investigated further. Giovanni Bertani, on the other hand, advocates the need for fresh and complex Amarone wines, challenging the conventional intense structure, over-ripening aromas, pushed drying and partly oxidative. Despite the challenges, the Bertani family continues to navigate the evolution of the wine industry with the utmost dedication to its heritage and the production of exceptional wines.”

The full text is available at this link:

https://www.forbes.com/sites/johnmariani/2018/11/06/tenuta-santa-maria-has-its-eye-on-the-weather-and-its-mind-on-upgrading-the-wines-of-the-veneto/