Appassimento
A Traditional Technique for Producing Amarone and Recioto della Valpolicella
The appassimento method, a pivotal stage in the production of Amarone and Recioto, constitutes an exclusive heritage of Valpolicella, a sophisticated expression of Veronese tradition that integrates environmental conditions, historical legacy, and technical proficiency. The temperate microclimate, optimal hillside ventilation, and the moderating influence of Lake Garda facilitate a gradual dehydration of the grapes (40-60%), concentrating sugars, acidity, and aromatic profiles of significant complexity. Rooted in Roman practices and refined over centuries, this process is inseparably tied to indigenous grape varieties such as Corvina and Rondinella, noted for their thick skins and ideal suitability for appassimento. Figures like Gaetano Bertani of Tenuta Santa Maria, a pioneer of contemporary Amarone, have optimized the technique in traditional drying lofts, expertly leveraging the region’s humidity and air circulation. This approach, unique to this region and recognized by DOCG status, enhances the Veronese terroir, yielding wines of impeccable structure and profound authenticity.
The History of Appassimento in Verona
Various records show that the practice of drying grapes to produce high-quality wines was deeply rooted in Verona’s winemaking culture since antiquity, though the specific terms “Recioto” and “Amarone” for these wines are more recent designations.
How Verona developed and preserved appassimento, making it a cornerstone of Valpolicella winemaking:
Roman Era
Pliny the Elder (Naturalis Historia, Book XIV, 77-79 AD) describes passum, a sweet wine from sun-dried grapes (Passum fit ex uvis siccatis ad solem), a precursor to Veronese techniques, widespread in Roman northern Italy and likely adapted locally.
Middle Ages
A 12th-century manuscript from San Zeno Basilica in Verona mentions a vinum dulce et pretiosum, a sweet, concentrated wine, hinting at appassimento methods inherited from the Romans and refined with local grapes.
15th-18th CENTURIES
Republic of Venice
Pier de’ Crescenzi (Ruralium Commodorum, 1304-1309) records grapes hung in ventilated spaces, a practice perfected in Verona, where Valpolicella rises as a premier winemaking hub.
16th CENTURY
A document from around 1550 references “Recioto,” from the dialect recia (ripe upper cluster), marking the formalization of sweet appassimento wines in the region.
Modern
Recognition
The DOC (1968) regulates Amarone’s production and aging; the DOCG (2010) adds quality controls, sensory testing, and the “Riserva” label (updated 2014).
The Appassimento Process
The production of Amarone and Recioto begins with meticulous vineyard selection, choosing ripe, flawless grape clusters to ensure optimal quality during appassimento. This process concentrates sugars, acids, and aromatic compounds, with a 40-60% water loss, shaping the distinctive profile of these wines. The grapes are laid on arelle in the historic fruttai of Tenuta Santa Maria in Arbizzano di Negrar, 18th-century spaces designed with large windows to harness Valpolicella’s natural ventilation.
Without mechanical dehumidification, appassimento lasts 3-4 months, enabling slow dehydration that preserves aromatic and structural complexity. The arelle provide even airflow around the single-layered clusters, preventing mold and allowing precise monitoring. This traditional method maximizes component concentration, essential to the unique character of Amarone and Recioto.
How Aromas evolve during appassimento in native grape varieties
The drying process of the grapes transforms the aromas of fresh fruit into complex bouquets that shape Amarone’s unique identity. The richness of Verona’s native grape varieties, refined over centuries to just a select few, defines its distinct character.
Temporal Summary of the Appassimento Process
0-30 days
Primary aromas (fresh fruit, flowers) predominate, accompanied by an initial concentration of sugars and polyphenols
30-60 days
Secondary aromas (dried fruit, sweet spices) develop, with the release of terpenes and norisoprenoids
90-120 days
Tertiary aromas (leather, tobacco, cocoa) emerge, driven by the oxidation of polyphenols and the formation of glycerol and esters
Evolution of Aromas Across Different Varieties
The four primary varieties—Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, and Oseleta—stand out for their drying potential, owing to thick skins, a balanced acidity-to-sugar ratio, and resistance to botrytis. These attributes, which other grape varieties do not possess to the same extent in similar environments, distinguish them in the appassimento process.
Corvina
Appassimento
Loses water evenly, maintaining good berry integrity.
Aromas
Develops complexity with notes of red fruit and spices, evolving into leather or tobacco.
Tannins
Contributes a robust tannic structure but may be more susceptible to noble rot.
Appassimento
Loses water evenly, maintaining good berry integrity.
Aromas
Develops complexity with notes of red fruit and spices, evolving into leather or tobacco.
Tannins
Contributes a robust tannic structure but may be more susceptible to noble rot.
Corvinone
Appassimento
Retains berry shape well, with a slightly sturdier structure than Corvina.
Aromas
Similar to Corvina but with added freshness, featuring red and black fruit, spices, and floral notes.
Tannins
Provides soft tannins, adding volume and color without Corvina’s harshness.
Appassimento
Retains berry shape well, with a slightly sturdier structure than Corvina.
Aromas
Similar to Corvina but with added freshness, featuring red and black fruit, spices, and floral notes.
Tannins
Provides soft tannins, adding volume and color without Corvina’s harshness.
Rondinella
Appassimento
Holds its shape exceptionally well, with less tendency to shrivel compared to Corvina.
Aromas
Contributes lighter notes of fruit and flowers, evolving into dried fruit and dried flowers.
Tannins
Softer and less aggressive than other varieties.
Appassimento
Holds its shape exceptionally well, with less tendency to shrivel compared to Corvina.
Aromas
Contributes lighter notes of fruit and flowers, evolving into dried fruit and dried flowers.
Tannins
Softer and less aggressive than other varieties.
Oseleta
Appassimento
Dehydrates more rapidly than other varieties, with excellent shape retention and an intensive concentration of polyphenols.
Aromas
Develops deep aromas of dark fruit, spices, and herbs, evolving into notes of tobacco, leather, and chocolate.
Tannins
Contributes a pronounced tannic structure, enhancing complexity and aging potential.
Appassimento
Dehydrates more rapidly than other varieties, with excellent shape retention and an intensive concentration of polyphenols.
Aromas
Develops deep aromas of dark fruit, spices, and herbs, evolving into notes of tobacco, leather, and chocolate.
Tannins
Contributes a pronounced tannic structure, enhancing complexity and aging potential.
Each grape variety evolves during appassimento according to its intrinsic characteristics, shaping the aromatic profile, structure, and aging potential of Amarone and Recioto.
Aromatic Precursors and Biochemical Processes
During natural appassimento (drying), concentration triggers a series of biochemical and physical reactions that alter the aromatic characteristics of the grapes, playing a pivotal role in developing the unique aromatic identity of Amarone.
Appassimento transcends mere sugar concentration: it’s a chemical stage where the aromas of native grapes dance, evolve, and reinvent themselves, crafting a singular bouquet that defines Amarone. Here, aromatic compounds don’t just intensify—they transform, painting nuances that elevate these wines to icons. Amarone and Recioto della Valpolicella sing a millennia-old tradition, masterfully honed by the Gaetano Bertani family: each glass narrates a tale of passion, evolution, and a visceral bond with Verona’s terroir.
The Wines of Tenuta Santa Maria
Combining traditional methods, advanced technology, and experience passed down through generations of family tradition, we produce wines that are the full expression of our land.
