Amarone: the grapes that give a nectar of excellence

The history of Amarone is very fascinating. To understand it, we need to take a leap in time, going back to the 4th century AD, when Cassiodorus, a historian and man of letters in the service of King Theodoric, wrote about a ‘winter must, cold blood of the grapes’ that was produced in the lands around Verona. This juice was obtained by pressing grapes that were dehydrated for months, hung from the rafters of the house. Dehydrating fruit was a means used by the ancients to have it always available, even during the coldest months. Our ancestors had realised that squeezing these grapes could produce a thick and sugar-concentrated must that spontaneous yeasts had difficulty transforming completely into alcohol. The result of this partial fermentation was a sweet wine called Recioto.

The important tradition of appassimento, which is now a candidate to become a Unesco intangible heritage, has lasted for centuries, so much so that even the first Amarone wines were labelled ‘Recioto Amarone’ or ‘Recioto Amaro’. It was in the 1950s when, precisely in our historical cellars, the first total transformation of sugars into alcohol took place, obtaining from the same dried Valpolicella grapes a wine with a dry and more alcoholic taste, in short a ‘bitter’ wine when compared to the sweet Recioto. This result was not the result of chance, but of technological expertise that was advancing year by year, allowing the selection of yeast families that were more and more effective in completing fermentation. 

A peculiarity of Valpolicella wines, and therefore also of Amarone, is that it is a blend, that is, a union of different varieties vinified separately that are then assembled to compose that harmonious whole that we find in the glass. 

The climate and soil of Valpolicella are a perfect match for viticulture. In fact, this region, located in the hills north of Verona, benefits from mild temperatures and soil that is partly clay and partly limestone, rich in minerals. these characteristics create ideal conditions for the growth of grapes destined for the production of fine wines, such as Amarone.
In this article you can find a full description of our vineyard locations and their unique terroir.

The current production regulations state that the Amarone blend must contain the varieties from the Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella vines, and that, in addition to these, 13 other minor indigenous varieties may be used.
Each of these varieties brings specific characteristics, creating a kaleidoscope of flavours that is the soul of Amarone. At Tenuta Santa Maria di Gaetano Bertani, we use Oseleta, for example, and are considering the reintroduction of other historical grape varieties. We have always cultivated the native varieties of Valpolicella, including Corvina, in the Novare variant, a highly selected clone that comes directly from our vineyards. The vine training system used is the Guyot, directly imported by Giovanni Bertani from France.  

The production process of Amarone wine is what makes it unique. We begin with the harvest: the bunches cut from the vines are picked and placed one by one in boxes. Manual harvesting in the vineyard allows us to assess the ripeness of the grapes and their perfect health. Once in the cellar, the bunches are placed side by side on the ‘arelle’, the traditional mats made of bamboo cane, forming a single layer of grapes. 

The bamboo canes have the advantage of allowing the air to filter through and allowing the moisture in the grapes to slowly disperse. The drying process starts here, with a gentle and progressive drying of the grapes, in an ancient and totally natural environment where the only temperature control is done by opening or closing the small windows of the drying room. During the drying process the grapes lose 40% of their weight in water, concentrating sugars, colouring substances, tannins and above all aromas, and many chemical changes take place between these elements, forming new compounds that are not present in fresh grapes, such as glycerine, a substance that will give the wine the silky, elegant texture we all love. 

Walking through the fruit cellar during the months of grape drying is an unforgettable experience: the sight of the arelle filled with grapes, arranged in neat columns on wooden supports, built more than 100 years ago, makes one realise how much this wine is the fruit of craftsmanship, while the warmth of the air impregnated with the persuasive scents of dried fruit invades the sense of smell and foreshadows the delightful aromas that we will find in the glass.

At the right time, the grapes are ready to be pressed. The must obtained is rich in sugars and fermentation is very slow and conducted at a low temperature. This is a very delicate phase that requires great care and delicacy on the part of our oenologists to preserve the integrity of the finest aromas and velvety flavour.

The resulting wine is then matured in large Slavonian oak barrels, as we have always done. The large cask subjects the wine to very low oxygenation, resulting in an ageing process that allows the wine to evolve slowly and gradually. Once again, in the production of Amarone, patience is indispensable, we could say that, in addition to the grapes, it is the fundamental ingredient in the production of this wine.

Our Amarone carries two specifications: Classico and Riserva. The mention Classico derives from the area of production. In fact, we are located in the municipality of Arbizzano di Negrar, the area that boasts the greatest history in the production of Valpolicella wines. The mention Riserva, on the other hand, indicates that the Amarone is aged for at least 48 months in the cellar before being released for sale, whereas the Amarone Classico regulations indicate a minimum of 24 months. 

From the moment of harvest to the moment of sale, our Amarone Riserva spends at least 66 months in barrels, in addition to a minimum of 6 months in the bottle. This long refinement makes it capable of evolving, after sale, in a very slow and linear manner, capable of maintaining excellent organoleptic characteristics for several decades, if the bottle is well preserved. 

When put on the market, our Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva presents itself in a very dense ruby colour from which sweet sensations of cherry, dark spices and a delicate sensation of withering red roses emerge. The sip is vigorous but balanced, with smooth tannin and well-integrated in the drink where alcohol and acidity are in balance. But it is perhaps with the passage of years in the bottle that the Amarone shows its mettle and its ability to withstand the challenge of time. Resting in the bottle lends greater gentleness to its strong character, allowing the finesse of small berries, the sweeter notes of pipe tobacco and the tantalising ones of pink pepper to emerge in a refined sip, almost impalpable in its silky tannin and supported by a freshness that lingers on mentholated memories and the juiciness of the fruit.
In the tradition of Veronese cuisine, Amarone is paired with processed and intensely flavoured dishes that counterbalance the strength of this wine. Game, cooked for a long time in a pan, is an excellent match. A venison or venison stew, or a pan-cooked hare offer the strong, spicy aroma that goes very well with the aromatic persistence of Amarone. 

An interesting pairing is provided to us by Pellegrino Artusi in his manual ‘Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well’ of 1891 in which the master of Italian cuisine proposes the recipe for ‘Cinghiale Dolce-Forte’, i.e. a piece of wild boar weighing about 1 kg that, after being cooked for a long time with a classic chopped onion, carrot, celery and a pinch of parsley, is sprinkled with ‘dolce-forte’, a vinegar-based mixture in which sultanas, chopped dark chocolate, pine nuts and candied citrus fruit have been left to infuse from the previous day. 

Amarone is then an excellent accompaniment to medium and long matured cheeses as long as they are rather mellow and not too piquant, as excessive piquancy would enhance the alcoholic sensation of the wine. 

Our Amarone Classico Riserva is recognized and appreciated worldwide and has received numerous reviews and ratings from notable wine critics and publications. Below are the top awards and accolades received by Tenuta Santa Maria’s Amarone wines.

To find out all about our Amarone and taste it for yourself, you can take part in one of the exclusive tastings offered by our estate. You will also have the opportunity to visit our splendid Chateau located in the heart of Valpolicella Classica, the most prestigious Amarone production area.
At this link you will find all the information you need to participate in our Tours and Tastings. https://www.tenutasantamaria.wine/tours-and-tastings