Tenuta Santa Maria

25 September 2024

Valpolicella wine: a journey between history and tradition

Discover the origin of Valpolicella wine and its variations, told through the native grapes, the history of the territory and traditional festivals.

Valpolicella wine: a journey between history and tradition

Valpolicella: a land suited to viticulture

Valpolicella is a large area that extends to the foothills of the Lessini Mountains, a mountain range of tectonic origin, north of Verona, from which descend numerous parallel valleys oriented in the north-south, carved by the passage of ancient streams that over the millennia have forged their forms. The territory encompasses numerous municipalities, from Sant’Ambrogio, to the west, almost close to Lake Garda, to Tregnago, in the east of Verona, bordering the production area of Soave. Several million years ago, this area was covered by a warm tropical sea which left behind a soil rich in limestone and clay, originated from marine and volcanic sediments. The presence of many streams has facilitated the settlement of populations that first settled in this territory.

The history of Valpolicella wine

The name Valpolicella seems to be of Latin derivation and there are two most popular hypotheses. The word may derive from the Latin “Polesella” meaning “land of many fruits” or from the union of the words “Val – polis – cellae” or “Valley of many cellars.”

The first finds of wine production found in Valpolicella date back to the Reti civilization, an Italic population that inhabited the lands of Valpolicella during the Iron Age (about VI century BC). Vitis vinifera had arrived in these lands thanks to the contact with the Etruscan people, from whom the Reti have learned the technique of grape fermentation. Reti people also introduced terracing to obtain flat areas on the hills where is easier to grow vegetables and fruit more easily. This agronomic technique is still used today: the “marogne”, or the drywalls that support the terraces, are a characteristic element of the landscape of Valpolicella.

In the following centuries, the cultivation of the vine spread even more widely. The grapes were not only used to make wine, but they were dried to have fruit available even during the winter months. In the 4th century, Senatore Cassiodoro praised the delicious organoleptic characteristics of “Acinatico”, a wine obtained by squeezing the dried grapes that is the precursor of modern Amarone.

The grapes of Valpolicella: Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella

The most cultivated native varieties in Valpolicella are Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella. Valpolicella wine is in fact a blend, that is an assemblage of these different varieties. Each of these gives the wine specific characteristics. La Corvina is the main grape. It has a thin grape skin and gives the wine delicate fruity and floral scents, but at the same time creates the wine’s structure, bringing great freshness and good taste. The Corvinone, so called because of its larger size than the Corvina, has a thicker grape skin, which gives it greater tannic vigor, a good color and is rich in spicy notes. Together, Corvina and Corvinone must be present in the Valpolicella wines in a percentage between 45% and 95%. Rondinella offers subtle scents but a good coloring substance.

In addition to these varieties there are 15 others that are allowed by the production regulations, all native of the territory of Valpolicella, which continue to be cultivated by producers in the area. At Tenuta Santa Maria we have enhanced the Oseleta, a grape with small and dense clusters, with a grape skin capable of giving tannins and color, but also pleasant spicy notes, especially during the aging period.  The other varieties allowed by the specification are: Casetta, Corbina, Dindarella, Enantio, Forsellina, Marzemina Grossa, Marzemino, Molinara, Negrara, Quaiara, Raboso Veronese, Rossignola, Spigamonti and Turchetta.

The different types of Valpolicella wine: the production process and the organoleptic characteristics

The peculiarity of the territory of Valpolicella (unique case in Italy and in the world) lies in the possibility to make 5 different types of wine with the same grapes. The first production specification for Valpolicella wine was published in the Gazette Ufficiale in 1968, at the same time as the DOC was recognised. On that occasion were identified “Valpolicella” (also with the meaning “Superiore”), “Valpolicella Ripasso”, “Recioto della Valpolicella” and “Amarone della Valpolicella”. Subsequently, in 2010, specific ministerial decrees were adopted, thanks to which the four types were made autonomous.

The term “Classico” can be applied to all types, but only for wines produced within the homonymous area, identified by the production specification among the municipalities of Negrar, where our Estate is located, Marano, Fumane, S. Ambrogio and S. Pietro in Cariano. This is the area where the history of the production of Valpolicella wine is proven and very old.

We start with “Valpolicella”, a young wine. In this case the grapes are pressed as soon as they are harvested. After fermentation, the wine is aged for a short time in the cellar (usually 4 or 5 months) and then placed on the market. Its characteristics are the crunchiness of the fruit and the ease of drinking.

Valpolicella can be given the term “Superiore” if the wine is made from a particular selection of grapes. The grapes destined for this type of wines must present a perfect ripeness and a good concentration of sugar in the berries, such as to develop a wine that has at least one more alcoholic degree than the fresh Valpolicella. Valpolicella Superiore must also be aged in the cellar for at least one year. The particular selection of grapes and the production process make it a more complex, dynamic and elegant wine.

The “Valpolicella Ripasso” is instead the child of a particular production technique. The wine obtained from the pressing of fresh grapes is then refermentare (“repassare”) on the marc of Amarone or Recioto and is then aged in the cellar for several months. During this second fermentation, the fragrant notes of fruit, typical of fresh wine, meet the softer and richer sensations of dried grapes. The result is a multifaceted wine, with good body and easy to drink.

The “Recioto della Valpolicella” can, in some way, be considered the father of Valpolicella. The first to produce it were the Rhaetian, fermenting the grapes left to dry. We can say that in many centuries of history the production technique has not changed much. Today, as then, the grape bunches are made to dehydrate until the grapes lose about 40% of their weight, concentrating sugars, acids, aromatic substances and other components. The must obtained is dense and rich in sugars, some of which will remain in the wine, giving the feeling of almost chewing the dried grapes, with its warm and spicy aromas. A good Recioto, however, is also rich in freshness and flavor, which make it an engaging and never cloying wine.

The “Amarone” is a son of Recioto. Also in this case the wine is obtained from dried grapes, but the fermentation is carried out to the end, transforming all the sugars into alcohol. In a good Amarone, the alcoholic power is accompanied by a complex structure where the tannic texture, silky after long aging in cask, meets dense sensations of dark fruit, dried fruits and spices in an enveloping and very faceted sip.

Tasting tips for Valpolicella wines: food pairing and service temperatures

As can be seen from the previous paragraph, the different types of Valpolicella wines offer a very wide range of sensations, which, starting with the dynamic fragrance of Valpolicella Classico become more intense and strong, until Amarone.

It goes without saying that the pairing with food should follow the same path. The smoothness of Valpolicella goes well with simple foods, such as a chopping board of cold cuts and fresh cheeses, a pasta with tomato or vegetables. To try with a fish stew. We recommend serving it around 8-10 degrees, to fully enjoy its refreshing freshness.

The Valpolicella Superiore, although having a greater complexity than the Valpolicella, it still enjoys good agility. It is accompanied by cheese of medium ripening, to first courses with quite elaborate condiments, such as meat sauce, and white meats or red grilled meats. The recommended serving temperature is between 16 and 18 degrees.

Valpolicella Ripasso wine has a good alcohol content and a nice density of fruity notes. Find a good match with foods of good aromatic persistence, such as cheese or savory meats, roasts of red meat. To be served between 18 and 20 degrees.

Amarone della Valpolicella expresses great complexity, smooth tannins, dark fruit and spice sensations that last for a long time on the palate. It is a great match with dishes with a strong and persistent flavor, such as those based on game, or long-maturing cheeses. Again, the ideal service temperature is between 18 and 20 degrees.

The Recioto, for its sweetish taste, it is usually combined with sweet foods such as dry pastries or dark chocolate that enhance its seductive and delicate notes. If you love contrasts, you can try it with satisfaction with salty combinations, such as a selection of aged or bleu cheeses. The serving temperature we suggest is around 16 degrees, to enjoy its sweet nuances while maintaining a tasty smoothness of drink.

How to choose the perfect Valpolicella wine?

Our answer is that there is no perfect Valpolicella, but there are Valpolicella for every occasion! Wine must accompany not only the food, but also our mood. If you desire easiness and simplicity you can find it in Valpolicella Classico, but if you wish to indulge in a little luxury, you can choose the elegance of Valpolicella Superiore or the comfort of a Valpolicella Ripasso. If you want to make the moment really unforgettable, it is time to uncork an Amarone or a sweet Recioto. You can enjoy them with calm and joy, enjoying every nuance of these beautiful wines.

The wine culture of Valpolicella: festivals, events and tastings

The territory of Valpolicella is rich in events that celebrate its different wines, some of which have a long history behind them. The oldest festival is probably the Palio del Recioto e dell’Amarone, which has been held for over 70 years during the Easter holidays in the town of Negrar. For the producers of Valpolicella, Recioto is the wine of the heart, true expression of the winemaking tradition of this land. To know how to make a good Recioto is source of great glory and pride. Every year thousands of people flock to the town square and the surrounding streets to taste the Recioto produced by the wine cellars of the Classic area.

Another important event is Vetrina dell’Amarone, organized by the Municipality of Negrar, which every year we have the pleasure to host at our estate in March. More than 20 wineries and over 40 labels in tasting, in a context that, besides wine, lights the spotlight on art, music and good food, thanks to the collaboration with the Associazione Cuochi Veronesi.

The Amarone is also a protagonist of the event Opera Prima, organized by the Consortium for the Protection of Valpolicella. The event takes place at the end of January and is an opportunity to taste in preview the new vintages that come on the market.

Tenuta Santa Maria

25 September 2024