Agricola Gaetano Bertani & figli
Agricola Gaetano Bertani e Figli (& Sons) is the realization of a long-held dream for brothers Giovanni and Guglielmo Bertani and their father Gaetano, for whom the venture is named. The new company arises from the 2012 division of assets following sale of the family’s Cantine Bertani label and represents a landmark initiative from the latest generation of one of northeast Italy’s best-known, most successful winemaking families.
Records show that generations of the Bertani family have been engaged in winemaking near Verona in Italy’s Veneto region for over 400 years. In the 1850s, brothers Gaetano and Giovan Bertani were the first to export Veronese wines on a significant scale, developing new markets in England, Germany and the U.S. In the process, they became the first Veronese producer to commercially bottle and sell Soave, Ripasso (Secco Bertani, still in production today), and appassimento-style wines. A hundred years later, a subsequent generation led the way in applying longer aging techniques to traditionally sweet and sparkling styles of Recioto della Valpolicella, resulting in the dry, opulent red today known as Amarone. Most recently, Giovanni’s father, Gaetano, became the first to pioneer extreme high-density plantings in the region and to experiment with Syrah.
The newly formed Agricola Gaetano Bertani e Figli accounts for 123 acres of vineyards spanning all three of Verona’s premier production zones: Valpolicella, Val d’Illasi and Val Grezzana. A further 49 acres will enter production in the next few years. Agricola Gaetano Bertani e Figli properties also include a dedicated drying location for production of Amarone and the magnificent 18th century neoclassical Villa Mosconi and winery outside Verona. Formerly known as Villa Novare, the newly renamed Villa Mosconi represents the crown jewel of the original Bertani holdings.
All told, the combined properties place Gaetano Bertani and his sons among the largest owners of privately held vineyards in the Veneto. As a result, the company will source 100% of its grape needs from its own vineyards — a rarity in the Veneto, where the average holding is 4.2 acres.
Winemaking at the Agricola Gaetano Bertani e Figli properties will be supervised by the renowned consultant, Franco Bernabei, consultant for Gaetano Bertani’s highly regarded 54-acre Tenuta Santa Maria all Pieve estate, where he is assisted by his son, Matteo. This continues a relationship between the Bertani and Bernabei families that spans three generations on each side.
Originally published in October 16 2012 on Shanken News Daily